Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Le Mali à Paris : Fête de l’Artisanat et du Tourisme du Mali

As some of you may know, I recently traveled to Paris. It almost didn’t happen thanks to Air France’s strike and the closing of the airport here in Bamako, but a day later and several degrees colder, we arrived in Paris.

Basically, after the Hallmark order with Farafina Tigne, I’ve decided to stick around for awhile and actually do some Small Enterprise Development work and help with accounting and bookkeeping systems. Because PC Baba does so much of his work at trade shows overseas, I wanted to go with him and see how he works and see how we could improve things. I was also hoping it would be a mini vacation – it wasn’t! I worked the entire time and saw the Eiffel Tower from the metro every morning and Notre Dame during my last 10 minutes on my way to the airport.

So, how did it go? It went pretty well – from my point of view. There were about 75 stands and artisans present to sell their goods. Things varied from West African cloth to beads to Tuareg leather/silver work and jewelry to sculptures and woodworking. A little bit of everything. The major complaints were that shows in the past were better organized. For this specific fair, it’s the Ministry of Artians and Tourism of Mali who pays for the space, the stands and the publicity. They lacked – a lot – on the publicity end of things. Even the entire week I was in Paris, I didn’t see one advertisement for it. That’s clearly a problem when 75 artisans pay $800 for a plane ticket to Paris hoping to at least recuperate the price of their plane ticket by selling their goods. From the handful of artisans I interviewed, there were mixed reviews about whether their plane ticket money was made. Some made it, some didn’t. But, in the end, it’s also an opportunity to go to France and have a cultural exchange. They get to see that Bamako is nowhere near Paris in terms of development and that it’s actually years away. They get to visit friends and family who now live in Paris. And, if they’re lucky, they make some money to bring back to their family in Mali.

Here are some photos from set up, through the show and spotlighting some artisans and their specific booths:

Held at the Bourse de Commerce, the fair began.

Stands were all empty and we were one of the first to arrive. Artisans filled in rapidly and set up their stands.


I thought we had a lot of luggage! Understandably, cloth is bulkier than beads.

Arial view of the fair.


Cisse, all dressed up, waiting to invite clients over to explain his products.


This is Dia who sells the most awesome bogolan I've seen. I'll definitely be visiting his shop in Bamako.


My good friend Mohammed with his leatherwork.


Aissata with her bazzin outfits ready to sell.

And, of course, Peace Corps Baba with his authentic clothes and ridiculously large hat.


This was part of our booth with manequins and necklaces galore!

Tuareg men - some of whom came all the way from Kidal - show their culture and sell their leather and silver work.


At these fairs there is apparently always a fashion show. Not going to lie, I was a little scared when PC Baba told me about this and his lofty ideas of what I would wear. In order to highlight Farafina Tigne’s involvement with the bogolan bag order, it was decided that I would have a bogolan outfit made. I was vehemently opposed to only bogolan, so we mixed it with some rich red fabric and it turned out awesome – see below. But, here are some photos from the fashion show highlighted of course by the presence of PC Baba and his assistant, me:


Bogolan fashion - not in the form of handbags.



Interesting takes on Malian fashion. I wonder what Malians here would have to say about this? They're pretty conservative.

Me and Haramba ready for the fashion show. Me in my bogolan and her as a true Peulh.

PC Baba and Cisse all decked out. Words don't exist to even explain how awesome they look.


Me and Cisse during the fashion show. Admittedly, I didn't know what I was doing and I was nervous.



Baba and Haramba during the fashion show. Everyone thought he was a hoot, which he normally is.


In the end, it was a really great time and a good experience to see crazy Baba in his element at trade shows selling his gorgeous jewelry. He did a great job and I’m happy I was able to go and help and support him in his enterprise.

What’s next for me? I want to stay put in one place – Mali – and get some new projects/work going. This includes getting back to my personal life and reading and relaxing. I almost want to completely forget what bogolan looks like, Men in Black style. We’ll see. As always, I’ll be sure to update with any new developments.